Minehead to Porlock: Starting the South West Coast Path
South West Coast Path: Minehead to Porlock
"One day or day one. You decide." - Paulo Coelho
So today is finally the day! So excited to step foot onto the south west coast path (the salt path). After an early start and topping up with a big breakfast, we arrived at the start of the south west coast path!
A statue greeted us with open hands (literally!) and the giant writing on the promenade pointed us in the right direction, so we definitely can't go off the wrong way! If you're heading towards Butlins you're going the wrong way!
We followed the beautiful silver shell markers to the road with the boats bobbing into peacefully in the harbour to our right. A couple of funny looks from some tradesman heading off for work for the day, with our shiny new bag (in Dan's case) and new coat (Holly) we are a vision of teal & blue with huge rucksacks on!
Although it must be a familiar sight, seeing walkers heading off on their coast path journeys, we exchanged hellos with the locals on their morning dog walks and ambered contently along the flat path. With the sea on our right we knew we were heading in the right direction. Leaving the easiest path we will travel on today, we took a steep hill away and immediately stopped to remove our jackets! Walking poles came out and we inched slowly up the steep incline through trees the sea peeking through. Anxious of blisters on our fresh feet and the pack weight on our normally unladen shoulders, we proceeded cautiously.
The path flattened out and we continued along the tree lined path until we reached a farm ahead. With an almost floating shed appearing on the right, the ground dropped steeply below and gave the impression the building was hovering. Although derelict, I could picture the perfect artist studio, with wide windows out onto the open fields, with far reaching views put to sea.
A sharp corner and steps to our left took us up and away from the farm. (A warning sign suggesting they get far more coast path wanderers than they'd like). A beautiful ivy covered post caught my eye, signaling the direction to follow. The direction? Up a gigantic hill into the woods! We ploughed on up the hill, crossing through a gate and taking a right at the top. Dried mud made for hard going but a pleasant walk. I wouldn't like to do this after a heavy downpour as it feels as if it would be a stream! A very strenuous start to welcome us to the coast path!
We found a bench by a turning to a church. Although normally we'd love a detour, a 1/4 mile to the church and back again (down what looked like a hill), wasn't as appealing today. We will have to come back to explore one day!
A quick rest stop on the bench and we set off again, passing some beautiful Exmoor ponies. A car park loomed ahead, signalling some civilisation again after our hike through the woods. Now on open planes again, the environment started to look like the top of the quantocks, with wide paths and bracken on the moors.
Another gate took us through to a curve to our left with beautiful yellow gorse opening onto the valley ahead. Dropping down to a stream we ventured back up again and saw our first hikers going in the opposite direction. With big packs, we wondered if they are nearing the end of their journey we are just starting!
Reaching the top of the hill we bared left and enjoyed the most wonderful traverse along a coastal track with the sea far below us on the right. Knowing we had done a hard incline right at the start put us in good stead knowing we could achieve one of the highest parts of the walk early on.
Stopping for a lunch break on a perfect seat height grass ledge, a few hikers passed us. Some with day packs and others fully laden like us! One lady stopped to chat and said we must've set off fast so we could get a break. Me being the people pleaser I am, nodded and said yes), only for Dan to say as she walked away that it was on the tip of his tongue to say that we aren't part of a group, we are walking the whole thing! Oh well, she will find out later when we aren’t on the minibus!
Continuing along the path, we undulated up and down with the landscape and soon came to a cross roads. Do we take the alternate route or stay on the coast path. The alternate route was a wide sweeping grass path, whereas the coast path was a narrower, rockier path with wild ponies on the path. We opted for the coast path of course! With the alternate path provided for days when the wind is too strong, but the weather today is calm and a light wind, so of course we went this way! And boy are we glad we did! The path opened up to a beautiful view and took our breath away! I instantly knew this was the view I wanted to paint today.
After a few photos, we wandered slightly off the path to a rocky view point to have a break and some scroggin (a term for nuts and raisins that we learnt whilst in New Zealand).
Rejoining the path feeling refreshed and inspired by the view we followed the gravelly loose path down. Surprised when it took a sharp corner to the right away from the view, we soon found ourselves zig zagging down the incline & saw a couple with a baby strapped to their chest going up! A narrow path took us down and around the small headland and then old coastguards hut came into view.
Peaking inside I was exclaiming how cool it was (very loudly) when I looked out the side window to see a family eating lunch! I quickly shut up and we came out of the hut and saw the beautiful Bossington Beach open up in front of us. A completely empty, long pebbly, black curved beach, reminded us very much of Kaikora in New Zealand!
Today's views were very unexpected as we have never walked this section of the coast path before and we were very pleasantly surprised with how nice it is!
We continued past the join of the 'easy' route - or as Dan's said "for pussys" (in earshot of a man who looked like he would've just come down the easy route!), the path flattened off and we followed it inland slightly with a lake (me), pond (Dan) on the right. Wondered what makes a lake a lake and a pond a pond? Saw two amazing birds fly past. Big, black and white statement, they looked like something that belonged abroad not in Bossington!
We followed the steam inland slightly and crossed a beautiful wooden bridge into a gorgeous car park (is there such a thing?!) but it had cherry blossoms and grass and was actually very beautiful!
An amazing spot to park up and have a paddle in the river and a picnic I think!
After a toilet break, we walked past a beautiful thatch cottage with a sign for tea & cake, (unfortunately out of action) and then a fresh apple juice stand (which was also empty!). Feeling disheartened for not getting any sweet treats we carried along the road with beautiful buildings and a stream it was very picturesque, the spring flowers and cherry blossoms making a picture perfect place.
The path soon turned to rocky path intentionally laid between two hedgerows. Unfortunately the rocks were too large so they were extremely uncomfortable to walk on! It was a relief to rejoin grass on the marshes beside the sea. It was strange to suddenly be around lots of dog walkers and people going about their normal day, on this day that was so momentous for us and that we had dreamed of for so long!
We had a chat with a lovely couple whilst taking a rest break. They asked how heavy are your packs? The answer, too heavy!! We found the turning away from the coast path that will lead us to our campsite for the night. We will rejoin the path again tomorrow!
We stumbled into Sparkhayes campsite in Porlock, we had made it! The site looks promising with lots of empty spaces & not many people pitched up. Greeted by a (slightly grumpy) man who we had potentially woken from a nap, we paid for our pitch (£28) and were told there are 60 students arriving tonight. Tired and unwilling to walk further we went to pitch up, thinking how bad can it be..
A first set up of our tent went smoothly and quick. We dumped our bags and hobbled up to a shop in Porlock, our feet free in our flip flops and sandals.
We bought a late lunch (meal deal) and walked back to the campsite to devour it. We are so hungry all day, but I guess that's what comes from burning so many calories!
Our afternoon consisted of stretching, relaxing and editing photos. I got my mini art kit out and started to paint my favourite view point from today.
Starting with an initial sketch with a blue lead pencil, I then added colour with posca pens and a water brush to define the sky, sea, beach, path and land. As it's miniature scale these are fairly blocky to give the rough outline and essence of the place. Then I used a super fine pen to sketch a few details and added in the coast path sign that has been our guide for the day & will be for the rest of the walk!
Later in the evening we went in search of food and found a lovely pub, The Ship Inn, apparently the best pub in Somerset in 2025 in some awards! We both enjoyed a Fanny's Bramble (a still plum cider!) and a meal before heading back through the cute streets of Porlock to nestle down for the night. Unfortunately the 60 kids had arrived whilst we out and the peace and tranquility of the site quickly disappeared. I think it's going to be a struggle getting to sleep! But all in all a wonderful first day.
Today's Miles: 11.29 miles
Steps: 29,667 (Holly), 28,499 (Dan)
Overview
Would recommend.
Varying landscape and challenging walk, but a nice way to start the SWCP.
Could probably find some ways to make a circular walk using the car parks we saw. Definitely worth exploring the area and exceeded expectations!
Places to revisit: the church detour. Bossington village; stream for a picnic / tearoom!
In hindsight, knowing what's coming the second day… if possible, would recommend making it all the way to Porlock Weir and staying there if you can. By staying in Porlock (which was great because of the campsite, shops and pubs), you are adding 2 miles onto the next day, which wasn't so great…!
