Porlock to Lynton: A hard day on the South West Coast Path

South West Coast Path: Porlock to Lynton

“Just because it's taking time doesn't mean it's not happening” - Dihman

Following a sleepless & cold night, we awoke in our temporary little home. A stroll into Porlock to stock up on breakfast & lunch for the day. Breakfast of choco croissant and porridge!

Walked the 1/2 mile to rejoin the coast path and turned left onto the marshes. Apparently in high spring tides it can be hard to cross. Nice & dry & flat for us though. After a stroll through the marshes, we joined onto Bossington Beach and traversed the rocky ridge to the road. A windy start meant I had chosen to wear leggings, but quickly changed into shorts as we found Porlock Weir and it's toilets with picnic benches for a quick pit stop.

We pottled through Porlock Weir, almost turning right over a really pretty bridge, but I spotted a sign in the distance so we headed that way. If you're walking through Porlock, straight on is the way! New mantra for the coast path. If theres no signs in sight, just go straight. We walked along another marsh type land past some quaint buildings and boats. Glad I saw the sign as the other route would have been over the pebble ridge which is hard going with a rucksack on your back!

We did however shortly join the pebble ridge and trod carefully to avoid rolling an ankle this early on. After a river that suddenly disappeared beneath the rocks we headed off the beach and up the mountainous outcrop that loomed above us. Absolutely beautiful in our photos, until we realised we had to go up it!

Once we entered the woods it felt like we did not leave them all day! A continuous walk of incline and decent through single file track rocky wooded path which was hard going on the feet and mind!

A highlight was coming across a bridge, with an old turret building and church down the valley. A quick stop for some energy boost and we were off again through more wooded valleys. With peaks of the sea once in a while we knew we were either high or low, but with no way to see how far we'd been or gone the going felt tough.

With little places to stop on the path, no benches or areas to sit, we finally struck gold when we spotted a clearing with a bent over tree which looked like it had housed many tents and therefore wild campers. Lunch beckoned as we weren't sure the next opportunity we would have to find a space to sit!

Feeling slightly rested, we continued on, dropping steeply down only to rise up again. The wooded area was tough going and felt hard. Not much changed with the scenery, but a few things to note, we went under some cool old bridges and there was a curved wall almost like a half pipe! Further on there was an arch way to go through.

Things finally started to open out again with the sea glimpses getting more and more. We rounded a tight bend and suddenly we were out of the woods (literally, but not quite figuratively!). A couple was sat on fold out chairs by a table & turns out there was an honesty box cooler box with drinks and chocolate! As we'd not long had a break, we passed and continued over the stile. Our first stile & a lot of effort. Just to land as Dan heaved himself over, the people coming the opposite way, opened the large gate.... Why didn't we think to do that!

The path curved around into a different landscape with a road down into a valley. We met two boys going the opposite way who had walked from Combe Martin that day and were asking for any wild camping spot recommendations. They were powering up the hill and we can only hope that we will be that strong by the end of our walk!

Up a ginormous hill and the landscape changed again. We rounded the corner onto a coastal view and finally lynmouth was in sight! I admit it was miles away!! My feet were so tired, definitely flagging after a long hard day. The view was amazing and we stopped to rest on a bench (found a mini Easter egg on the bench, which was a delight!). We traversed across the edge of a very steep gradient (not one if you've got vertigo!), down down down we went. Past an old gun turret site and to a road for a stretch, before entering some woods with beautiful flowers and tree with places engraved. Unfortunately we didn't have the time or patience to write Wellington!

We came out from the coast path into the harbour and crossed over the river. We found Dan's parents who were meeting us for the night and a welcome pint in a pub which was so well deserved! A long hard day, but we still had to make it back to the campsite. Luckily Kate & Ian (Dan's parents) had found the last time for the cliff railway, so we made sure we were there and took the water powered tram up to Lynton. Definitely a cool experience!

We then had another few minutes of walking to the site where it just started to rain as we set foot in the campsite. We have never been so glad to see their motorhome and not have to put up a tent in the rain!

It was so lovely to see them and sleep in a warm comfy bed for the night, made even better by the fact that it was timed so well with the rainest evening! We did feel sorry for our fellow hikers who were braving it in their ultralight tents.

Sketch of the day, capturing the high cliffs and curving waves into Lynmouth, Lynton nestled in the hills above.

Today's Miles: 15.32 miles

Steps: 41,794 (Holly), 33,065 (Dan)

Overview

Would not recommend for a day hike. Anyone we saw looked as thoroughly pissed off as we felt!

Although there are beautiful sections, it also seemed never ending.

Not many sea views, tough walking through woods made for a hard day.

Perhaps finding car parking and exploring in little sections, but wouldn't do in one go.

Would recommend staying in Porlock Weir the day before to minimise the number of miles if doing it one go.

There was no facilities along the way, so make sure you take enough water & food.