Bude to Crackington Haven: The Sketchiest Path Yet

South West Coast Path: Bude to Crackington Haven

“May you be kind to yourself as you navigate whatever you are feeling today” - Morgan Harper Nichols

Waking up on a mattress & being warm was like heaven! Dan said he slept so well. We went down for a Premier Inn breakfast to treat ourselves (I ended up being disappointed). I walked up to an Amazon box where I was supposed to have some new boots I'd ordered waiting for me. Got there and scanned the code, only for a small door to open. Puzzled, I opened the package, to find a box of cereal bars and some deep heat. No shoes. Absolutely gutted as I was so excited to wear new shoes today & have just walked extra distance for nothing! Buying some lunch from the petrol station, I headed back to the Premier Inn completely disappointed.

We packed up and left quite late about 9.15am. It was hard to get going & leave the room to be honest! We joined the coast path leaving Bude and crossing over the canal. We passed a couple of ducks and saw lots of lambs which were cute. Looking back towards Bude we could see the bright blue of the tidal swimming pool nestled in the rocks on the sand.

A little way and we came down to Widemouth bay. We stopped for a break overlooking the beach, but the cold wind soon moved us on. The next few beaches after Widemouth were actually pretty cool! I'd love to come back and explore this end of the beach in the future.

We climbed again and had a great view looking back over Bude. Dropping steeply down a very steep, very loose dirt path, we edged our way down into Milllook. This path was so dodgy and definitely the sketchiest path yet! The gravel was slipping under our feet and we edged our way slowly and carefully down the path, so thankful for our poles.

I saw my dream house! Love the house with a veranda and would turn the blue shed into an art gallery and making studio! Anyone know if you can stay here? It's dreamy!

Leaving Millock a sign told us it was a 30% hill. We plodded our way up, very out of breath by the top! There was a spot that would've been perfect for a bench! But obviously there wasn't one. I wonder if you can request benches somehow?

With Millock our half way point, we looked for a bench, but the narrow path didn't provide one or even anywhere to perch, until finally a bench loomed ahead! I flopped onto it, grateful for the rest from being on my feet. We got our lunch out, but the bench was so exposed, we ate quickly with towels wrapped around our legs to protect us from the bitter wind.

Moving on, the path followed some fields before dropping into a wooded area, across a bridge and around more fields. There looked to be a few perfect wild camping spots, in trees off the edge of the fields. Pausing briefly, we saw a bench with a sign 500 miles to Poole. Which means we've done 130 miles so far!

Our joy soon stopped as we rounded the corner and a deep valley opened in front of us, which we had to go down & back up. Zig zagging our way down the path, we decided to pause for a break at the bottom. But the wind seemed to keep changing direction, so no matter where we went, we weren't sheltered. But we got to see a beautiful beach with horses high above on the cliff, we have no idea how they got there! There was also a waterfall and a shelter made from old rope and a fire pit area down below.

Up the hill we went, it was so steep and so many steps. By this point, my feet are screaming at me to stop. We found a sort of sheltered area and lay down in the grass overlooking the next valley. The sun briefly came out which was so lovely! We got going again and headed down and up the next valley, before climbing up yet another cliff. With an option to go to St Genny's and cut off the corner, I wanted to do this (any excuse to shorten the time on my feet today), but Dan wanted to do the coastal path. So we continued on the coastal path, rising higher and looking like we were about to go off the edge of a cliff.

Then back down again in one long downhill. But the uphill the other side was ginormous! Feet are in agony by now, each step on rocky ground is like pins being stabbed into my feet. Had a little moment, but Dan helped me to keep going.

Finally at the top of the hill, we saw a sign for Crackington Haven in 1/4 mile. We rounded the headland and Crackington Haven came into view. A few surfers were lapping up the waves in the shallows and people were playing tennis on the tennis court by the sea. We walked down and tried all the places to eat (most were closed, sold out or not serving food!) before finally being able to get some food at the Cabin Cafe. Dan got two pasties & I got a sausage roll & a cheese scone. One for now & one for tea!

Originally we were going to have to find somewhere to wild camp, with a lack of options to stay here, but we managed to find a campsite on a bus route so headed there. We got there and had the campsite to ourselves! It was absolutely freezing cold and just before we went to bed the lovely owners asked if we wanted a duvet. Such a nice and thoughtful thing to do. I jumped at the chance, Dan laughing at my enthusiasm! Here's to a comfier night sleep.

Today's painting captures the high path leading down into Crackington Haven, our end point for the day. The relief I felt upon seeing it far below was unbelievable. The painting aims to capture the river flowing out to sea and the high path above the beach below.

Today's Miles: 12.37 miles

Steps: 32,280 (Holly), 19,748 (Dan)

Overview

Today was actually very beautiful, but with some tough steep sections, following straight on from yesterday’s hard day, it was a challenge.

Again make sure you take enough supplies as after you leave Bude there isn't much until you arrive in Crackington Haven.

The views are wonderful and there are definitely a few places to come back visit and beaches that you would probably get to yourselves (but pebbly).

The sketchiest bit was coming down the gravelly steep path (no steps) into Millock. So be warned or take poles for extra support if you can!