Crackington Haven to Tintagel: Clearest Water Yet!

South West Coast Path: Crackington Haven to Tintagel

“We can't direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails” - Thomas S Monson

I asked Dan what we did today. His answer... We walked. End of update! Haha. But what actually happened…

We woke up mega early to a 5.30am alarm and struggled to get up as it was so cold and the lovely campsite owner had kindly given us a duvet each so we were so snuggled up. After 15 minutes of trying to get up, we finally did and packed down as quickly as we could so we could make the 7am bus (as the next one wasn't for another 2 hours).

We made it and were in a deserted Crackington Haven before the sun hit the sand. Heading up the cliffs to the left, we began a long assent which seemed to keep going on and on until high cliff (the highest cliff in Cornwall). There was a cool place I'd love to visit again when we have the legs to go down to the beach, just before High Cliff, Saint Genny's Beach.

A gentle but continuous uphill and we finally came out on top of High Cliff. What a view! It was amazing and we went down to a look out that gave me funny feet as it was so high! The wind was freezing so today was the first day I'd walked for a long period of time with my coat on, despite the sun being out.

After high cliff, we knew there was going to be a steep descent. Looking over the hill, we realised just how long and steep it would be as we could see the onwards path at the bottom. A path led off to the left so a quick look on the map (recommend Maps.me for an offline map which shows your location too), and we plotted a route around the top which kept us at a similar elevation and brought us out the other side of the route. We'll come back one day to visit Saint Genny's Beach and also do the zig zag path when we aren't laden with weight and Dan doesn't have a dodgy knee. We will obviously go down routes if there is no other option, but for self preservation and wanting to make it to the end, if an alternative route is available it seems the sensible choice to take it.

We rejoined the path and after not seeing anyone all morning, we saw a lovely lady out with her dog for a walk. We chatted to her about our walk, her home in Crackington Haven and the area. It was actually really lovely and I'd love to look as good as her when I retire! Continuing onwards we came across some stepping stones which reminded Dan of Takeshi's Castle. He then had to explain it to me as I'd never seen it.

We finally spotted a high backed bench (a luxury!) overlooking some beautiful cliffs we had just walked over. We were so high it was hard to tell, but it sounded like & looked like seals were down below, but we couldn't be sure! Just as we left we heard a massive bang, which we think must've been a rock fall as when we turned back, the seals (yes they were actually seals), were swimming away and making a racket. It's such a beautiful spot for the seals to rest, calm water, sunshine and no people, a little hidden cove.

We carried on around the next headland and heard a other bang. Maybe another rock fall if the first one dislodged something? We dropped down into a cliff top with the clearest water, you could literally see the cliff beneath the surface, it was so clear! As we rounded it further a waterfall came into view. Down the valley we went, but there was a beautiful spot perfect for a picnic right by the steam and bridge and still high above the cliffs and waterfall. We paused briefly for a drink, before setting off again up the endless steps.

We were so tempted by the farm shop and cafe at the top, but we were so close to Boscastle, we just wanted to get there and have a proper lunch break. We seemed to be walking away from Boscastle, but eventually turned back and saw again the clearest water! So beautiful. Some swimmers were in the harbour and I was jealous! We trapsed down into Boscastle checking out the food options, but not wanting to eat in, we eventually found a bakery and got Dan his pasty he'd been wanting.

We ate our lunch and stocked up on supplies at the shop, then went to the outdoor shop to look for some nice backpacker packet food for dinner, but alas it was more a clothing shop and didn't actually have anything we were after (warmer sleeping bag, comfier bed, food). I did end up buying an extra lightweight fleece jumper to wear in the evenings and at night as it's been so cold! Because we couldn't find any food here, we headed back to the bakery and got another pasty for Dan & some other bits for dinner & breakfast tomorrow.

Leaving Boscastle, the water looked so clear as we headed down the other side of the river and up the hill. We headed up towards the white castle looking building on the hill, but turned away to continue on the coast past. With bluebell filled grassed down to the cliffs, we continued on a high path along, dropping down valleys crossing over crystal clear rivers flowing elegantly down to the sea.

We went past a cliff with a hole in it with a footpath which looked like you could walk through it. From a map this is called Ladies Window Arch. It looked quite cool in person! It wasn't long until we saw a camper van in a field and wondered if this was the campsite we were stopping at. Deciding to chance it, we headed into the campsite, past a sign telling us that Lands End is 74 miles away.

Turns it out was the campsite we were hoping for. We tried to book online, but it wanted us to put in a car reg and we had also tried to ring but couldnt get through. But it was fine as they had space and take backpackers. And it was a lot cheaper than online (£20 for us both instead of £37.50). They wanted us to go up the tent area which was back where we had just walked from and about half a mile away it felt like (it's a long skinny campsite!). I asked if there was somewhere sheltered this end as it was super windy and I didn't want to be walking back up there! Luckily the lovely ladies on reception were very accommodating and put us in a mini field tucked away near reception. We had this little patch to ourselves, a bit of shelter, a sea view and were surrounded by bunnies. A beautiful sunset after our noodles & pasty for tea. It was so nice to finally see a sunset into the sea!

Today's painting captures the beautiful curved harbour wall of Boscastle, with the Clearest water we have seen yet! The path sloping down gently into Boscastle.

Today's Miles: 11.98 miles

Steps: 31,970 (Holly), 28975 (Dan)

Overview

Today was actually a really nice walk, with lots of sights to see along the way, great views and the clearest water we have seen yet!

Definitely want to go back to go down to St Genny's beach. It would be a lovely section of walk for day trippers. With Boscastle in the middle, you could base yourself there and walk both directions on different days.

With bus routes I imagine there might be the opportunity to do bus walk routes too.

Recommend this stretch.