Hartland Quay to Bude: Crossing into Cornwall on the South West Coast Path, the hardest day yet.

South West Coast Path: Hartland Quay to Bude

“Every single breath you breathe is proof you are finding your way through this” - Morgan Harper Nichols

Pretty cold night last night! We went to the barn to use the kettle for our breakfast and someone was asleep on the sofa in there! I'd had thoughts of doing the same thing in the night to be honest, but too cold to move! We packed up early and loaded my bag ready for the bag transfer we had booked for today. Taking a lot of the weight out of Dan's bag and leaving me bagless for the day so we can tackle the hardest section of the path. A severe day, and really long, we knew we had to do something to make us able to complete it. We also had a Premier Inn booked as a treat the other end in Bude.

Setting off early, with Holly's make shift bag from a packing cube and a dog lead I found yesterday (tartan and perfect to make a shoulder bag), we set off down the lane. Instead of adding the extra 1.5 miles to our already long mileage day, we decided to use an inland road and track until we reached the place where the coast path met the road. This meant we missed a waterfall, but we had already seen this on a previous trip so were happy with the compromise.

We went past some cute cottages and saw Lundy Island again in the distance.

On joining the path again, we stayed high on the cliffs, the cold wind battering us as the sun tried to peak through.

We continued for a while until we came across Welcome Mouth Beach. I absolutely loved this place. With beautiful waterfalls down to the beach it's definitely a place I'd love to come back to. We crossed the stepping stones over the river and up the next hill.

Climbing out of the valley and starting down the next valley (yes two valleys straight after each other, each with extremely steep incline & decents, and no you can’t walk on the beach, we did consider this option!), we came across the writing hut. There were some ladies there already, who encouraged us in, and I signed our names in the book. One of the ladies owned the hut which was pretty cool!

Down and up again, we entered Cornwall. Dan said “see you in a few weeks Devon”, to which I said, “once we've walked around the entire coastline of Cornwall!” Pretty mad when you think about it!!

We went up and down a few more valleys (very tiring, endless steps & inclines & descents), before we headed inland slightly on a detour to a cream tea place. We enjoyed amazing sandwiches and shared a scone for pudding!

Feeling stuffed, we rejoined the coast path & went up and down so many more valleys. Some very very picturesque and would make amazing remote beaches to relax on, as long as you're up for the trek there & back!

Deciding once we reach Duckpool, (with toilets), we will have a break, we ended up seeing a coffee van and bought some cans of coke and two ice lollies. Frustratingly, the sun went in and the wind picked up so we ended up being too cold & I actually couldn't finish my ice lolly! We struggled to get ourselves moving again. Having already done a full day's miles on a normal day, we were knackered by now, but still had miles to go!

Up to the top and down again, we went past Sandymere with it's cafe and a lot more people. Walking along, we could see a jam packed field, with tents and camper vans right up to the cliff edge. The coast path skirted along the edge of the campsite, a couple of times we had to walk around people or vans parked over the coast path itself! To be fair, it was a pretty cool (if sloped) site, but for us it was far too busy, full of holiday makers making the most of the view and the bank holiday weekend. Spotting only one portaloo and no other facilities, we were glad we didn't decide to pitch here (we had considered it as an option!).

Continuing on, headlands opened up again and we could kind of spot Bude in the distance. Feeling tired (actually exhausted!) we rested on a bench and had a mars bar. Last push to go! We went past a stoney beach, which has a tea room not far behind, but it's so late in the day now, everything is shut.

We shortcut across the headland into Bude coming into Crooklets. We had planned on going to get dinner straight away from a chicken & rum shack, but it was instead now TJs bar, with pumping music and full of people having a good time. It was the opposite of the stodgy food and quiet we were craving!

We pushed on up the hill, past the (amazing) Bude tunnel (just Google the reviews!) and went in search of fish & chips. Rounding the corner and seeing the queue waiting to order, we decided standing on our feet in a queue wasn't the one either.

Down Bude high street we went. Funny looks coming from normal holiday makers, with our walking poles clacking their way down, holding up our exhausted bodies. We passed several Chinese shops and decided we wanted that! We made it to the Premier Inn where an evening of eating Chinese food, a bath (absolutely amazing) and a comfy mattress in a warm room followed. Amazing way to round off the hardest day yet.

Today's painting is my favourite point of the day, seeing the beautiful Welcome Bay. The waterfalls contrasting the cliffs and creating a heavenly place I definitely want to come back to.

Today's Miles: 16.72 miles

Steps: 43,330 (Holly), 28,805 (Dan)

Overview

A hard but rewarding day. If time is on your side or you are doing day walks, I'd definitely break it up into two, stopping at Morwenstow.

The day is punishing, but beautiful. If you are carrying a big bag, I'd recommend doing the baggage transfer. It would've taken us too long if we'd had the big rucksacks too.

Take enough food & drink, you'll need the water!

Overall, even though it's hard, I would recommend this section. It's 10 valleys that you go down & up, each have their own character and make a varied beautiful walk. Doing it in the sunshine definitely helps!