Westward Ho! to Clovelly: A Grey Day on the South West Coast Path

South West Coast Path: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

“Wonderful things are just around the corner“

Leaving late from the holiday cottage, we didn't actually set off until about 8.45am. Heading through the town on the concrete promenade, we followed the metal footprints in the pavements. It was a misty morning and also high tide, which was a complete contrast to the low tide beach and blue sky day yesterday.

Leaving the chalets and beach huts behind we went past a grand derelict house which could be amazing if restored! There was also a car park with a sign saying it's the best car park in England? Free car parking with a seaview. There were also some picnic benches on grass a little further along, which would make a nice place for a picnic or fish and chips!

We continued along a relatively flat trail, following another old railway line. The path narrowed after a long length and we started to join a grass path. We climbed steeply and I expect we would've had an amazing view at the top if it wasn't misty!

Following the coast path we passed some small coves and looked down upon a few mini waterfalls onto the black rock beaches below.

The going got tough as the path narrowed and became overgrown. Avoiding brambles, stinging nettles, gorse and bushes, ducking and dodging a lot of the way made for slow progress. We eventually came out at a beach and found a large log to rest on,.having a well deserved mars bar.

Leaving the beach was a steep climb, despite the misty day it was hot and sweaty, almost humid without any wind. The path again went narrow and overgrown and we battled our way through for the next few hours, taking respite on benches or logs when we could. Definitely wouldn't recommend this stretch for a pleasant walk. Perhaps if they cut the overgrown path back it would be better, but with only sea glimpses and not much air, it was tough work. The silver living was that the path was sprinkled with some spring flowers, making it beautiful in places.

We were glad to leave this section and a lunch stop couldn't come soon enough. We found a hut which we were able to stop for lunch in. It was a shelter with a picnic bench inside, so perfect for us!

After a lunch stop we rejoined the path and started to walk through the woods. With bluebells and flowers growing wild, it made for picturesque walking. We weaved our way around the woods with occasional sea glimpses, it was still misty so we couldn't see much of a view.

The sun started to peak through and just as it opened up from the woods slightly, I said ‘there's a view coming, there's got to be a bench soon..”, to round the corner and there is a view and a much needed bench! We could see Clovelly in the distance, our end destination for today.

We continued on, and the path began to decend into Bucks Mills. A steep gradient to go down to reach the tiny place and then a steep incline back up again. I would’ve loved to look at the beach, but lacking leg energy and it looked like another hill to go down, my legs said no! One to come back to. Via car I think!

The bluebell covered woods continued after Bucks Mills and we were on the look out for a holiday park which contained a shop. Skirting beneath the holiday park, there were multiple fallen trees which required much navigation! Dan walked along the top of one whole tree and I took my pack off and went underneath instead. There were so many down over the path, but it was too late to turn back as we'd come so far, so we climbed, ducked and scrambled our way over/under them.

Finally, up a hill we saw a young couple in clean white sneakers looking very much like they'd come from a clean holiday park, so we realised we must be close! A quick check on the map and a side diversion and we could see the shop! Definitely recommend a pit stop here. The Nisa at Bucks Mills holiday park (Park Deane). The shop was well stocked and we knew this might be the last shop we came across until Bude so we stocked up on noodles and cereal bars. And of course an ice-cream!

After the shop we rejoined the path and skirted around the edge of some sheep fields. We saw a bent tree bench with a cute plaque that someone had proposed there!

After the fields there was a final valley to cross with a well constructed bridge (so we knew we must be near a road!). Up again and we came out onto Hobby Drive. An old road that would take us straight into Clovelly.

The road was relatively easy walking, the only problem being, it was so long and my feet and Dan's knee are starting to play up after a long day of walking.

We stopped to rest on some benches overlooking Clovelly. The sun's starting to get lower in the sky and it's now dinner time.

But no worries, one last push into Clovelly where there are toilets, a cafe and a water fountain to fill up our drinks bottles for tomorrow. So we thought…

We get there and EVERYTHING is shut. Not even one toilet was left open! The water fountain is actually a water fountain (decoration - not for drinking from!) and the cafe has long been closed and doesn't open until 9.30am the next morning. We sat defeated on a bench and looked up our options.

There was a bus! Leaving in 3 minutes! Yes! We could get on this and go to a campsite up the hill where there would be toilets and water! 10 minutes later, still no sign of the bus. We checked the QR code on the bus stop which said there were no more buses today. Defeated again, we considered forking out for a hotel, but that involved going down the hill into Clovelly. We checked the campsite again and it said on their Google page that they give lifts to walkers! We rang the campsite and a lady answered and she said she would leave her pint in Clovelly and come and pick us up.

I had just hung up, when not 1, but 2 buses arrived!! Literally what are the chances. I tried to ring her back to say we will hop on the bus, but with patchy signal and the line dropping out, I'm not sure if she heard. We got on the bus for £2, which then stopped right outside the campsite! As we got off and started up the drive, the lady pulled up behind us.

We had a quick tour and then settled in to make some food. By this point it's quite late, but the sun is still just about warm enough to keep us toasty while we cooked some noodles. There was also a shop so we got some drinks and cookies too!

We pitched up as the sun was setting and showered and went to bed. Only problem was, we had both shared a monster energy drink at the shop earlier in the day and we both still felt wired and wide awake. But tired feet and legs eventually lulled us to sleep.

Today's painting was inspired by finally seeing the view of Clovelly after a long time undercover in trees. Capturing that feeling of relief of finally finding a bench! The main focus is the tiny glimpse of the village on the cliff in the distance. The cliffs were so coated in trees and woods right down to the sea shore.

Today's Miles: 13.56 miles

Steps: 35,982 (Holly), 19,399 (Dan)

Overview

I probably wouldn't recommend this section. Leaving Westward Ho! and going for a small walk would be nice, hopefully you'd have nicer views than our misty day.

I’d definitely like to go back to have a look at Bucks Mills beach. And the walk down Hobby Drive (although very long), did actually bring you out into Clovelly BENEATH the paid entrance… so perhaps a way to visit without paying (if you're up for a long walk!).

We didn't even actually get to see Clovelly as the path skirts above it, so I would like to go back to walk down the cobbled streets to the harbour.