Instow to Westward Ho: Estuary Walking on the South West Coast Path

South West Coast Path: Instow (ish) Tarka Trail Camping to Westward Ho

“It's up to you to see the beauty in everyday things”

Leaving the beautiful Tarka Trail campsite in the golden morning glow we headed up about 5 steps and were back on the Tarka Trail! We mooched along the old railway line heading towards Instow. There was a mega high tide so we decided not to go through the marshes, and instead took an easy start to the day walking the trail straight to Instow. A lot of cyclists about, a few looked like they were commuting to work, which would be a lovely commute!

In Instow we got a sausage roll and mars bar for breakfast with a view over the high tide water and picturesque harbour. We were hoping to get the ferry over to Appledore to save the monotonous walking along the Tarka Trail, but we found out yesterday that the ferry isn't running due to the tide times for the next few days. Gutting! So we continued our walk around to Bideford.

Going along the river was nice as the tide was high and made for some pretty photos. The walk was on tarmac again and hard going.

We saw some other walkers again along the way. Sometimes passing ships, people doing it in the opposite direction who are on their own journey, but we share a moment in a time. A quick hello and a nod that we understand what they are going through.

After the endless tarmac, we came out at an old train station, before crossing the bridge into Bideford.

As a treat we got brunch in spoons!

Heading away from Bideford after a quick pit stop (that's one thing you can’t fault spoons for, it's cheap and fast!) we left the town and followed the signs for the coast path. It's like a treasure hunt looking for the signs and there's a few times you could go wrong if you aren't paying attention!

This side was much nicer with more variety in the route and the path going back to earth instead of concrete. Through a pretty wooded area and around some dried mud beaches it was a nice change to the constant tarmac of the Tarka Trail.

We walked into Appledore and enjoyed the sunshine on a bench with a bag of dolly mix. Walking around through the pretty street down towards the lifeguard station, we saw pastel coloured houses with painted window boxes. We passed two pubs and decided we need to come back here one day for the pubs!

After the lifeguard station, the coast path took us up a path to the left above the small cliffs but it was very overgrown and full with stinging nettles! Definitely recommend walking across the foreshore instead if the tide allows as you will join this later on anyway. It would've saved a few stung arms & legs!

We followed this along until we reached the Northam marshes where we turned right (felt like the wrong way with Westward Ho! in front of us!). I was struggling with sore feet so we sat by a small beach, me hiding in the small amount of shade of the grasses and Dan in the blazing heat sunbathing!

Two black lambs came along, the sheep are clearly used to humans as they came quite close.

We set off again around the point until we were facing towards Westward Ho!. Finally going in the right direction again! There was an extra low spring low tide so it almost looked as if Saunton and Westward Ho! beach were one! If only it was, it would've saved us two days of walking! There is definitely a mental challenge of seeing where you were days ago and not feeling like you've made much progress.

We headed down over the pebble ridge to the beach to walk the miles on the hard flat sand. The sun beating down and the sunbathers spectacting as we stomped past. Getting busier as we approached Westward Ho! end (the only place in England with an ! in it's name), we fell into the first bar we saw and enjoyed a cider in the sun! After a long day of walking it's such a nice feeling.

7 days of walking and finally we were at our first destination for a day off. Luckily my sister, Rosie, her husband Chris and my baby nephew Lucas were coming to spend some time with us, so they picked us up from the village and took us to the Air BnB and cooked us a lovely meal! Sleeping on a mattress again was amazing and having the luxury of being warm & a duvet!

Today's painting was inspired by finally seeing the end, even though it was miles down the beach! It was nice to have the end in sight. Also amazing how many beaches we have walked down.

Capturing the endless expanse of the sand to the slither of land in the distance, the pebble ridge on the left, sea not even visible on the right, encompassing the extreme low tide.

Today's Miles: 12.88 miles

Steps: 32,241 (Holly), 27,860 (Dan)

Overview

Would like to explore Instow more in the future. Cycling from Instow to Bideford would be nice as the path is smooth and flat. Probably best at high tide to enjoy the water.

The walk from Bideford to Appledore was fairly pleasant to be fair (you couldn't cycle this), and we definitely want to explore Appledore in the future.

To be honest we would probably recommend getting the ferry if possible from Instow to Appledore and spending more time in both these places.

Walking Westward Ho! beach was hard work, there are other alternatives through the dunes or we also spoke to a local guy who was shortcutting off from Appledore direct to WWHo! As tempting as this was, we again wanted to walk the length of the beach as it's not something we would do again. And it's an achievement to say we've done it!

Bonus: Our day off in Westward Ho!

A much needed lie in and a restorative day today. We ate food, washed clothes, took our nephew to the beach and enjoyed spending time in the garden and around the cute Airbnb. It's an old cottage, and one of the oldest buildings in Westward Ho! and it's been on my favourites list to visit for a while now, so it was so nice when Rosie suggested it.

My nephew loved the sea so I can't wait to make a water baby out of him! It was nice to finally dunk my feet in the sea too and was a much needed day off. Thanks to Rosie & Chris for looking after us, it was a boost we needed.

Today's Miles: 0.4 miles

Steps: 4,659 (Holly), 4,295 (Dan)

Would recommend days off if possible to recoup and recover. We thought we had planned six days walking, one day off. Turns out this week was seven days before our day off. Not sure how we figured that out! Think we forgot about the first day!

Holly Freemantle

Holly Freemantle is a coastal artist and explorer making waves through art inspired by the journey and beauty of the coast. Sharing explorations and creative tides.

https://www.tidesofteal.com
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Saunton to Instow: Walking the Tarka Trail of the South West Coast Path