Combe Martin to Woolacombe: Via Ilfracombe on the South West Coast Path

South West Coast Path: Combe Martin to Woolacombe

“You'll find a way”

Luckily the campsite had a kettle and microwave so we easily made porridge and pot noodles (not together!) for breakfast. There was also a bath too that you could insert coins in to run. Would've loved one, but the days seem to go so fast by the time we've walked we are so exhausted to do much else!

We came up the road out of Combe Martin and found the coast path, twisting around the headlands we saw some beautiful views! We came out looking down over Broadsands Beach, which we have been down to previously, but the steps are now fenced off as there's been a landslip. We skirted through a campsite which would've been perfect to stay in as you literally walk past the pitches! And a lot of them have sea views. Definitely one to come back to.

A slight walk along a road and we came out at a pretty harbour. At low tide you can walk through the harbour and up some steps, so we chose this route, testing out our Gore Tex shoes! 

A very pretty bluebell and wild garlic filled walk besides the harbour followed, winding it's way slowly up and creeping out onto a headland. Lots of pictures opportunities that Dan was starting to get fed up with me for stopping! It was just so picturesque!

We came around and up and down headlands stopping at benches with view points for breathers from the steps. We rounded another corner and Hele bay and Ilfracombe came into sight. Yes lunch!

We made it down the road and sat in Hele bay to give our feet a quick breather before we headed up and over the hill between the two. Probably beautiful circular walks (if you're up for a hill) and definitely nice view at the top, but we skipped the detour to the next view point and continued our way down to Ilfracombe.

We chatted to another couple doing the walk at the top of the hill and they are going as far as Padstow and staying in hotels. Always nice to meet people who are also going through what we are! 

We followed them down into Ilfracombe and rather frustratingly ended up on a beach which we had to walk out the other side of again as we'd missed the turning for the coast path avoiding the beach! Lesson learnt in not following others, although to be fair there was no sign signalling the beach or coast path at the junction. Just cost us quite a few steep steps down & back up again!

We followed the metal footsteps into Ilfracombe & saw the Verity statue from afar and then found our way to spoons for lunch! Sitting on the top deck with a sea view was delightful! Knowing we had to walk over the big hill to our left, not so much! 

After lunch we began to slowly crawl our way out of Ilfracombe, following the zig zagging path upwards and onto the cliffs beyond. We looked down over Tunnels Beach, somewhere I'd love to go one day too.

We found a bench overlooking a beautiful view before Lee, and stopped there for a while. I was reapplying sunscreen to my legs when I saw a tick! I’d been telling Dan about them as we had seen a couple of signs of being tick aware & I knew of them from Duke of Edinburgh when I was a kid. A quick Google and luckily we had some tweezers and I was tick free again! Hopefully anyway! That's what you get for going to pee away from the path in long grass!

We slowly continued down into Lee. Dan's knee playing up so he walked some of it backwards (with my guidance of course!).

Down in lee bay we enjoyed a quick pitt stop before heading straight back up the road and rejoining the coastal path. A pleasant but windy up and down followed with little coves and a lighthouse, until finally, FINALLY, we saw the campsite.

On top of the hill above Rockham beach. Up we went and then had to walk so far though the site to reception. Luckily we saw the Dutch lady again on the way so we left our bags with her and headed to reception bag free! We actually returned with more as we bought two walking poles from the wardens there to give Dan two poles instead of the one he'd been using which was also starting to break. We also bought half the shop for tea! 

We were going to head to the pub in Mortehoe but neither of us wanted to walk any further so we bought supplies and heated up some beans on the stove and had a kind of nacho tea overlooking the sea with a cider in hand, we were happy campers! 

Today's painting captures the joy of seeing Ilfracombe in the distance. Ready for a lunch at Wetherspoons, it was a lovely moment! Until we realised we had to go over the hill between Hele Bay & Ilfracombe. But we made it! This painting captures the path, the sea, the big hill & Ilfracombe in the distance.

Today's Miles: 13.06 miles 

Steps: 33,899 (Holly), 31,223 (Dan)

Overview

Would definitely recommend the first part of the walk to Ilfracombe. It was picturesque and relatively nice paths.

Some people chose to do an easier day and stay in Ilfracombe. I would probably have done this to be honest and had an afternoon of food, access to shops and maybe a trip to the cinema!

The second part of the walk, even through we technically didn't get all the way to Woolacombe (we stayed at a campsite in Mortehoe), it was a tough walk and probably wouldve been more enjoyable if it was done from Ilfracombe and not as part of a bigger day.

Will come back to Tunnels Beaches, Morte Point to explore more.

Holly Freemantle

Holly Freemantle is a coastal artist and explorer making waves through art inspired by the journey and beauty of the coast. Sharing explorations and creative tides.

https://www.tidesofteal.com
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Woolacombe to Saunton Sands: Walking the North Devon Beaches of the South West Coast Path

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Lynton to Combe Martin: The highest point on the South West Coast Path